Cafes
The Globe - located half way down Broughton Street this is a great coffee bar which also sells wonderful toasted sandwiches with a great selection of fillings.
The Broughton Deli - this cute little neighbourhood deli come café (through the back of the shop) is situated just off Broughton Street just opposite the Globe. Its such a gem because of all the home made cakes, salads, hams, pickles (I could go on!) that are made by the owners on the premises.
Embo (0131-652-3880 www.embodeli.com ) - if you're heading up into town or wandering back after a hard day's sightseeing drop in to Embo on Leith Walk (on the left heading towards Pilrig Street). They also sell great coffees, freshly squeezed juices and a great selection of design your own sandwiches!
The Circle Café (0131-624-4666)- a lovely French style bistro/café- great open sandwitches/coffee and cakes! Located at Canonmills roundabout- down Broughton Street and keep going for another 5 minutes or so on the way to the botanic gardens!
Valvona and Crolla (0131-556-6066 www.valvonacrolla.com )- an Edinburgh institution- this is the best Italian deli- probably between here and Italy!- situated at the top of Leith Walk on the way to Princes Street (Elm Row)- at the back of the deli is a great café open for coffee and food all day.
Vin Caffé (0131-557-0088 www.valvonacrolla.com )- a great contemporary eatery also owned by Valvona and Crolla so it serves the best in of their fabulous deli food and more in a sophisticated atmosphere. Located in the fashionable Multrees walk just behind Harvey Nichols.
The Olive Branch (0131-557-8589 www.theolivebranchscotland.co.uk )- just opposite the Globe about half way down Broughton Street. This café/brasserie is also open in the evening when it turns into quite a romantic setting for some well priced and varied café food. On a hot day (yes it does happen!), it's great to sit outside and people watch- they even have a ‘dog-park'- park your pooch whilst you eat!!
National Galleries Cafés (- my favourites are the modern Art Gallery and the Dean Gallery cafés (located just across the road from each other a short walk or free gallery bus ride from town- the shuttle bus runs between all the national gallery sites regularly through the day). A great lunch stop in between taking in some culture.
Renroc (0131-556-0432 www.renroc.co.uk )- this funky little café is tucked away in the neighbourhood area of Hillside- about 5 minutes walk from the Playhouse Theatre on Montgomery Street so still very central. The name sound odd but, think about it when you get there and realise it's right on the corner of the street!
Mediterraneo - half way down Broughton Street, a great little lunch stop Italian café with a quiet room at the back to relax and enjoy anything from a sandwich to some more gourmet menu options.
Rapido (0131-556-2041)- not really a café but we think it should make the list! Situated on Broughton Street between the Barony Bar and Mediterraneo. This is a great fish and chip shop with much more besides- freshly prepared pizza cooked while you wait, baked potatoes and a host of other home made fast food options- who needs Mcdonalds!
Always Sunday (0131-662-0667 www.alwayssunday.co.uk )- half way up the Royal Mile, it's difficult to find somewhere in this part of town that's truly a local find but this place is great! Changing daily menu of specials, veggie options and typical café food but all to a high standard. Worth the pit-stop from a day of walking between the castle and the palace.
Spoon (0131-556-6922)- located just off the Royal Mile on Blackfriars Street- close to the Tron intersection. This is by no means a greasy spoon- in fact, quite the opposite- a bright and airy café where food is the main draw- lots of fresh and tasty soups, salads and sandwiches make this a great lunch stop.
Restaurants
The Smoke Stack (0131-556-6032 www.smokestack.org.uk )– a great char-grill restaurant located on Broughton Street- this should serve most tastes- burgers to cajun to fish and all very fresh and delicious. The atmosphere is also very relaxed but quite intimate.
Diner 7- (0131-553-0624 www.diner7.co.uk ) in the Shore area of Leith (Commercial Street just over the bridge)- a new, contemporary and stylish diner with great burgers and steaks and good selection of fish and changing special dishes. It's also very well priced- it's quite small and gets busy so it's always a good idea to book!
La Favorita (0131-554-2430 www.la-favorita.com)- on Leith Walk, just a little further down from Pilrig Street, La Favorita has won the restaurant award for best pizzeria in the UK- modern Italian cooking- and great pizzas! Their sister restaurant, Vittoria's (0131-556-6171 www.vittoriarestaurant.com) -more traditional and an Edinburgh institution- is also on Leith Walk slightly further towards Princes Street- also great with a huge selection of traditional italian dishes. Outdoor seating makes for fun summer evenings- sweaters not supplied so bring one and you can sit out ‘til late under the heaters.
CentoTre (0131-225-1550 www.centotre.com )- former directors of Valvona and Crolla (the best Italian deli in hundreds of miles!) run this stylish café/restaurant near the west end of George Street (corner of Castle Street). Lovely!
Barioja (0131-557-3622 www.barioja.co.uk )– just behind the back of Waverley Station on St Mary's Street. A great tapas bar/restaurant with a contemporary and relaxed atmosphere- also very good value.
Phuket Pavilion (0131-556-4323 www.phuket-pavillion.co.uk )- this traditionally Thai eaterie is a great stop for consistently good Thai food in a friendly, relaxed atmosphere- situated on Union Street just opposite the Playhouse Theatre.
The Raj (0131-553-3980 www.rajontheshore.com )– on the Shore down on Leith waterfront, this is a very good indian restaurant decorated as the name would suggest. It also offers a ‘1995 prices' weekday menu so it's great value!
Fish restaurants – for the best fish restaurants in Edinburgh you really have to head down to Leith where there are a multitude of great eateries. Fishers on the Shore (0131-554-5666 www.fishersbistros.cu.uk ), Skippers (0131-554-1018 www.skippers.co.uk ), the Shore (0131-553-5080 www.theshore.biz )…all well worth the trip and with a great waterfront setting. My favourite and also that of most of the Edinburgh locals is Fishers- don't even think of going without booking! They also have another branch in the centre of town (Fishers in the City) on Thistle Lane, close to Princes Street (0131-225-5109).
The Ship on the Shore (0131-555-0409)- something between great pub food and a great bistro- lots of fish and comfort food and particularly good for Sunday lunch- all in a rustic cosy setting right on the shore on the main thoroughfare in Leith.
The Outsider (0131-226-3131)- a very stylish eaterie without the pricetag so it's always full to the rafters. It's located on George Fourth Bridge close to the Royal Mile and has stunning views to the castle- advance bookings needed every night of the week.
The Fourth Floor Restaurant at Harvey Nichols (0131-524-8350 www.harveynichols.com )- very much a place to see and be seen- a stylish bar and restaurant for lunch and dinner with great views across the city and towards the north. Worth it for the views and the people watching- the food's consistently good- just don't stress if the service doesn't quite match!
Hadrian's (0131-557-5000 www.thebalmoralhotel.com )– ground floor of the Balmoral Hotel on Princes Street. Very stylish and beautifully decorated with great food to match with a Scottish/French theme! A little more pricey but worth it for an evening to remember in Edinburgh.
The Witchery (0131-225-5613 www.thewitchery.com )- the ultimate tourist mecca when it comes to eating in Edinburgh. As a local I'd say it's a little over- priced but worth it for the location (right next to the castle) and the interior. The best tip though is that for ambience, it's best to eat in the ‘secret garden'!
Rhubarb at Prestonfield House (0131-225-1333 www.rhubarb-restaurant.com )- a little out of town set within beautiful grounds (peacocks on the lawn!), the is the ultimate sumptuously designed dining experience. The sister restaurant to the Witchery and I reckon the ambience outshines the food- it's still great but heavy on the pocket!
Martin Wishart Restaurant (0131-553-3557 www.martin-wishart.co.uk )- certainly one of the most talked about restaurants in town, mainly due to its Michelin star rating, and as such its reputation as a sublime dining experience. Located in Leith on the Shore- bookings always necessary!
The Kitchin (0131-555-1755 www.thekitchin.com )- new kid on the block Tom Kitchin has created a minimal and contemporary setting for his much talked about (a Michelin star after only 6 months opening) restaurant. Situated on the Commercial Quay in Leith, the menu boasts Scottish produce with a French influence.
The Vintners Rooms (0131-554-6767 www.thevintnersrooms.com )- again located in Leith, this is fine dining in a beautiful historic setting and well worth a visit. The old wine vaults building is separated into two eating areas- a romantic candle-lit former auction room and a larger more brightly lit former sale room with wall hung tapestries and log fire.
The Tower (0131-225-3003 www.tower-restaurant.com )- a beautiful and contemporary Scottish restaurant located within the Royal Museum of Scotland (at the end of Chambers Street). It's expensive but great and the view over the roof tops to the castle is wonderful.
The Scotsman Hotel- North Bridge Brasserie (0131-622-2846 www.thescotsmanhotel.co.uk )- This hotel used to be the home of the Scotsman newspaper until it moved into purpose built offices recently and the building became a hotel. The brasserie is the old reception area- wonderful marble columns set against a very contemporary glass staircase. Great for cocktails and the food? Great and not too pricey- ‘modern Scottish'.
David Bann Restaurant (0131-556-5888 www.davidbann.com )- 100% vegetarian but without the stereotype! Bann's is located on St Mary's Street just off the royal Mile. It boasts a cool contemporary interior with modern and sophisticated vegetarian menu.
Roti (0131-225-1233 www.roti.uk.com )- an Indian restaurant but not quite what you'd expect of one- the menu combines Scottish produce with an adventurous take on the curry by award winning chef Tony Singh. Situated discretely near to the International Conference Centre so a little out of the way but worth the trip.
Bars
The Barony Bar – on Broughton street, half way down on the right hand side. This is a very traditional Edinburgh bar with a mixed age local crowd. Worth a visit- especially for a taste of their pies!!
Robbie's Bar – again a traditional local haunt just at the end of Pilrig Street so it's easily within staggering distance! We call it the Barony of Leith Walk!
The Street – right at the top of Broughton Street on the corner. This is at the other end of the scale – a stylish coffee/drinking hang out by day and a pre-club bar by night frequented by a young groovy mixed/gay crowd.
Mezz- a great bar and lunch stop at the bottom of Broughton Street, just by the roundabout. Contemporary interior, with comfy sofas and a relaxed atmosphere.
Black Bo's (0131-557-6136 www.blackbos.co.uk ) – located on Blackfriar's Street, just off the Royal Mile this is very much a hang out of the local crowd and student population– great music and a very laid back atmosphere- good veggie restaurant attached.
Rick's (0131-622-7800 www.ricksedinburgh.co.uk )- billed as a Manhattan style bar/restaurant, this epitomises up-town Edinburgh. Very contemporary décor with a busy atmosphere (which can be a little much if you want a quiet night out!- but fun if you're lining up the cocktails for a big night!). Situated on Frederick Street between George and Queen Streets.
The Opal Lounge (0131-226-2275 www.opallounge.co.uk )- on George Street (between Frederick and Hanover Streets) is of similar styling to Rick's. A slick bar and eaterie which has a good eastern menu.
Tigerlily (0131-225-5005 www.tigerlilyedinburgh.co.uk ) - the latest rival to Rick's and the Opal Lounge- also George Street- this stylish and theatrical bar/restaurant/nightclub (Lulu) is a big hit with the cocktail crowd and eye candy barflies!
The Dome (0131-624-8624 www.thedomeedinburgh.com )- again on George Street, near the St Andrew Square end (opposite the George Hotel)- this is a great place to stop for lunch or an afternoon pit-stop- worth it just to experience the inside of the building-originally a bank headquarters, with an amazing ceiling.
DragonFly (0131-228-4543 www.dragonflycocktailbar.com )- not the closest drinking haunts- situated just on the other side of the Grassmarket on West Port. It's worth the trip- this very groovy bar has a mixed hip crowd and quirky/contemporary interior.
Victoria Bar/Boda Bar/Sofi's Bar/Joseph Pearce- these four lovely bars are Swedish owned the (hint is in the décor with bar snack options to match!). The Victoria and Boda are located a little further down Leith Walk on the other side from Pilrig Street, Sofi's is on Henderson Street just next to the shore in Leith, Joseph Pearce- the latest offering- on the corner of Elm Row at the top of Leith Walk. All have a very mixed local crows and a lovely quirky ‘shabby-chic' atmosphere.
Shopping
Princes Street- the main street in town which faces the castle. Here you'll find a mix of all the regular high street shops- HMV/Virgin record shops at the west end, Waterstone's book shop close by, M&S, and Jenners close to the railway station.
Jenners- the oldest department store in town, situated on Princes Street just opposite the railway station. Beautiful Victorian exterior and interior, and don't miss the enormous tree that gets erected in the central atrium at Christmas time! Good for anything from high heels to haggis!
George Street- parallel to Princes street but with a much better selection of upmarket clothes shops and some good eateries. Check out Cruise- the menswear shop is close to Castle Street and womens wear has just opened round the corner on Castle Street.
Harvey Nichols- the newest upmarket department store in town- on the north corner of St Andrew Square. Don't miss it for fantastic designer clothes, perfumes, and gorgeous little things! It also has a wonderful roof top café with great views of the city.
John Lewis- my favourite department store in town (ok strike that, my favourite shop in the world!)- not out of any respect for their lines in high fashion (it's not that kind of place), but because you can get almost anything here and the staff are unbelievably knowledgable. Situated at the top of Leith Walk, just off the roundabout.
Geoffrey Taylor Kilts- on the lower stretch of the Royal Mile, close to John Knox's house. As well as a great selection of traditional tartans, this shop incorporates 21st Century Kilts- set up by the owner's son who now produces kilts in everything from denim to pink silk. Recent customers include Robbie Williams and Vin Diesel!
St. Stephen's Street in Stockbridge- a lovely little street with a selection of shops which sell anything from antique jewellery, second hand clothes, to retro-furniture and interiors. Just further down the hill and onto Raeburn Place, visit my friend at Annie Smith Jewellery- she
designs and makes a great selection of contemporary Scottish silver and gold jewellery (at very reasonable prices!).
Victoria Street- a downhill walk from just off the Royal Mile (near the George IV Bridge crossroads). Here you'll find a host of small, quirky shops and cafes- from clothes to antiques and lots in between. At the bottom, wander into the Grassmarket where you'll also find some gems. Look out for Armstrong's- a must if you need something second hand for that last minute fancy dress outfit!
St Mary's Street/Jeffrey Street- these streets meet each other at an intersection near the bottom of the Royal Mile- a good mix of quirky shops- jewellery, retro, clothing, flowers, gift shops (drop in to ‘Present' on St Mary's St for the perfect little something- and say hi to my friend Kiaz!).
Causewayside- on the south side of the city, just past the Meadows (park) this is a great street for antiques- furniture and knick-knacks- if you're an enthusiast, it might be worth the trip!
8 things you have to do when you're here!
(aside from
the obvious ones!)
